Fingerboard ;)

Woo! Guess what I just did?

Bored of guessing, but fairly sure it’s something climbing related? Well done, you’re right :) I just did my first full set on my new Beastmaker 2000 (possibly the most gnarly training device ever created)

My fingers, forearms and biceps are hurting like hell, and my shoulders and back have had an amazing workout, and it feels good to be finally doing something similar to climbing again. So yeah, here’s my basic training plan for the next 8 or so weeks, when I’m going to totally re-assess it :) Today’s session - Repeaters.

For those of you who are new to fingerboard training, repeaters are similar to deadhangs insofar as you’re hanging from the board in a fixed position. They follow a 7 second hang, 3 second rest pattern, and are done in sets of 6 so that a full set lasts around a minute. After 2-3 minutes rest, pick a different set of holds and start all over again :) But unlike deadhangs, repeaters are done at a variety of different angles, the first and fourth hangs at around 140 degrees (just off vertical), the second and fifth at a 90 degree lock off, and the third and sixth at a full lock.

Below is the beastmaker :) The holds correspond to the numbers on the training table :)

Hopefully after a few sets of this, I’ll be an absolute beast ;) Let me know what you guys think, and if you need any help thinking of some sort of training plan, I’m not qualified.. But hey, how hard can it be?

Rock on, climbers :)

I love you all x